Why are rebinds so expensive?
It should come as no surprise to many people that Bible rebinds are expensive. Sure, you can find new rebinders that will do a rebind for considerably less than more established and experienced rebinders. However even rebinds from newer rebinders will typically cost considerably more than factory Bibles. Why is this? Isn’t the heart of a Bible the text block, and rebinders are just reusing that?
There’s actually a lot more to rebinding a Bible than meets the eye. While I can’t speak for every rebinder, I’ll discuss rebinding from my personal point of view. Everyone has their own set of standards. The standards I’ve set for myself while handcrafting a Bible rebind is to use only the best available materials and tools to provide the best rebind I can assemble. I simply don’t cut corners on what I do, what I use, and how I approach a rebind.
The rebinding process
I’ll begin by discussing the process that I follow with every rebind. It doesn’t matter if it’s a new Bible, or a used Bible. They all go through the following process. I include this to help illustrate that there may be more to this than you first thought.
Upon receipt of a Bible, I inspect it to determine what repairs may be needed. If it’s a new Bible, this process goes quickly. Things slow down, some more than others, looking to see what is needed in a used Bible. Once I have a feel for what repairs will be needed, if any, I’ll start breaking down the Bible. Some Bibles are easier to break down that others. This process involves removing the cover, ribbons, and head bands. I’ll usually begin the repairs, if needed, at this time. I have more control over the text block at this stage, but it still has the mull (a material that resembles cheese cloth) holding the text block together. Depending on the repairs needed, repairs may go quickly, or be time consuming. Next, I’ll place the text block in my press and remove all of the old mull and glue from the text block. I want the spine cleaned from as much factory reinforcement as possible. (Yes, even brand new Schuyler, Allan, etc Bibles). Every Bible gets the same treatment. I do not cut corners or reuse factory materials.
Once the text block is prepared I add new mull, ribbons, head bands, and glue to the text block. The text block is then set aside to allow the PVA glue time to properly dry. After the PVA glue is dry the text block is ready for measurements. Each text block is custom measured, and the leather is custom cut for that specific text block.
With the leather cut, I need to mark the leather. Marks are added where each spine rib is to be placed on the cover leather, designations for the spine, as well as any embossing that may be added, etc. Everything has to be measured correctly. The liner is also measured and cut with measurements added to show where the edge line tabs to attach the text block will be located. There is no bigger mistake while creating a rebind than to miss on a measurement.
The cover leather’s edges are then skived (thinned). Skiving the edges allows the edges of the leather to “roll over” the liner and be glued down later in the process. It also allows the corners to be properly tooled. Depending upon what type leather is being used, and how large the cover is, skiving leather is a process that requires a steady hand, and skill. Skiving is a skill that takes a lot of practice to master. A good skiing knife is usually sharper than a razor, so caution is always the better part of valor while skiving knives are on the work table.
The next process is adding the raised ribs to the cover’s spine, and any embossing, if requested. I have another another article explains embossing if you’re interested in learning more about that. Once the raised ribs are added to the cover’s spine and tooled into the leather it’s time to add the liner to the cover. The liner is attached using PVA glue.
The next aspect involves adding the gilt line to the liner, if requested. I prefer to add the gilt line before completing the cover. Once it is added I’ll roll the cover over the liner and glue down the cover to the liner. Last but not least, it’s now time to tool the corners of the cover and then lay the cover aside to dry.
The next phase involves one of the more time consuming aspects of a typical rebind. It’s time to tool the perimeter line in the cover, prick (punch holes) the cover to allow for the hand stitched perimeter. We don’t use sewing machines. Hand stitching using a style called saddle stitching provides a secure stitch that, even if broken, will not run. Saddle stitching is just another one of the skills that must be mastered for our rebinds. I do not do rebinds without a hand stitched perimeter. The purpose is to provide a permanent cover for your Bible that will last for years.
Hand stitching is a time consuming process, but when it is completed, it’s time to move on to stamping your Bible’s cover. Stamping can be foil stamped, or blind (no foil) stamped. Either way, it takes time to develop the required skills to properly stamp a cover. Different leathers and foils can effect the stamping process. Measurements are critical at this stage also while you center up all the standard and custom stamping that can be requested.
Once we complete the stamping, your Bible is ready to be assembled (cased in). This includes attaching the text block to the cover, and adding the lambskin covered end sheets. I perform this part of the rebind in two separate phases, allowing the pva glue to dry as needed at each point of this process. Once everything is completed, it’s time to wrap your Bible in order to train your yapp, if needed.
Yes, I simplified and quickly moved you through the process we follow during our rebind process. There are some things I left out trying not to get too in depth, or give away some of our “secrets.” I mainly hope it helps explain this isn’t a two hour process. Most of our rebinds average 8-10 hours to complete. There is also the time involved in between stages allowing the pva glue to dry. There are actually five different points when I sit the rebind aside allowing glue to dry, typically overnight.
So you see there is a lot of time involved in a rebind. I don’t like to rush a rebind and I don’t cut corners. I treat a $20 Bible the same as a $300 Bible. So having seen the basic overview of what it takes to create a rebind, what other things effect the price of a rebind?
Materials
Leather: The single most expensive aspect of a rebind that effects the cost of a rebind, is the leather that is used for that rebind, and the size of the Bible. Sure, I can find inexpensive leathers on eBay all day long, but you never know what you’re going to get. I have my established leather suppliers that I know I can trust to provide quality leathers. I only use leathers that are considered premium leathers. As a point of reference, these leathers can run anywhere from $100 to $300 for one piece of goatskin, to many of the cowhide leathers. Exotic leathers like ostrich typically cost around $500, and alligator skins can run as much as $1,000 to $1500.
There are several aspects that can determine how many covers you can make from one skin. I’ve had goatskins that only had enough area suitable for one full cover. Sometimes I can get two. Rarely can I get more than two full covers from goatskin. The point to be made here, is it really depends on the skin, any imperfections (imperfections includes multiple things undesirable to use for a cover.), etc. It’s also important to point out there is also a second leather always included with every rebind we use, and that is lambskin. I’m particular about the lambskin I use, and it’s not the inexpensive lambskin you find on eBay. The bottom line is leather is a large portion of the cost of any rebind.
Ribbons: You can find ribbons at virtually any craft store, Walmart, eBay, and Amazon. They are everywhere. However, the Ribbons we exclusively use are 10mm Berisford Double Satin ribbons. Berisford ribbons are considerably more expensive than any other ribbon on the market, but they are worth it. There is a difference in ribbons! Berisford is a ribbon maker located in the United Kingdom. I have to order them from the UK and have them shipped here. I maintain an inventory of of 42 different Berisford ribbons that you can choose from. I suspect that is more than any other rebinder. These ribbons generally run approximately 4x more expensive than any another ribbon on the market. Also, you can’t buy their ribbon by the foot. You have to order it by the spool.
Page Dyes and Foils: I maintain a stock of 33 different page dyes, and the re-inking kits for each color. You’ll also find a selection of 17 different foil colors for Bible stamping. I stock this variety in order to offer a larger selection of colors. That does mean that I maintain a costlier inventory than someone that offers a minimal selection.
Tools and Assorted Materials: Beyond the previously, and more obvious things that effect Bible rebinding costs, are the less obvious things. You probably haven’t bought PVA glue before, but I purchase it by the gallon, and five gallon quantities. One gallon of Jade PVA-403 glue, at the time of this writing, costs just over $80, including shipping. You might think of it as liquid gold. I go through a lot of Jade PVA-403 glue in a year.
Then there is the stamping equipment needed to stamp your Bible. The stamping machine that I use would cost you almost $2,000 to purchase, and you would still need the additional accessories, like the type sets, holders, etc., to effectively use it. A single type set averages $260 each. I have seven different sets, yet still hope to add more over time. Let’s not forget about the specialty stamps that some like to use on their Bibles. I currently have 11 different custom stamps that cost me a little over $1,100. I have to keep adding different style custom stamps.
Skiving knives and sharpening tools are another key element in crafting our rebinds. Like anything in this world, you get what you pay for. I started with $12 skiving knives years ago. The skiving knives I use now are $225 for each knife. As with everything else, there is a difference.
I could continue listing elements and their cost to our bottom line, but let’s just cut to the chase, so to speak. I took a calculator and walked around my shop, totaling up all of the various tools and materials used while constructing our rebinds. You might be surprised to learn that I have in excess of $20,000 invested in tools and materials directly related to creating rebinds. That doesn’t include any of the leather inventory that I have on hand.
Miscellaneous Expenses
Additional expenses that most people don’t consider are the state and local business licenses and sales taxes I have to pay. Trust me, the government is going to get their portion! You just don’t see it, because that’s built into the price I quote. The same goes for return shipping. Both of these line items on a spread sheet must be paid, I just don’t line item you to death on our proposal. The price I list on my proposal is the price you pay. That includes everything.
Conclusion
As I stated in the beginning, rebinds are expensive. The interesting aspect is that they are expensive for both of us. It’s an expensive hobby for the hobbyist rebinder, and the full-time rebinder. The rebinder is limited to how many Bibles can rebind within a set time frame. This isn’t something that can be scaled like Ford did with the model-T. Everything is done by hand, and I can only make so many rebinds in a set period of time. All of the listed expenses hit me, just as they do you. A lot of people think rebinders make a lot of money on a rebind, but if you put the pencil to the paper, it’s not anywhere as large of a profit as you think. It’s more of a labor of love to many of us.
The one aspect of my business I can somewhat control, is the way I distribute information and proposals. I have invested a considerable amount of time to my website and through other tools using emailed information to provide information, schedule rebinds, etc. However, no amount of technology replaces more individual attention that some desire. Some people require more support than others. Some have more questions, while others struggle to decide what they want and make numerous changes. While it’s part of doing business, it takes time away from actually doing a rebind. The more time taken away from actual rebinds helps drive up the cost of an individual rebind.
The customer has the opportunity to be involved in the design process. The options we provide are considerable. It can be overwhelming to some, but that’s the single biggest advantage too many. They can get exactly what they want. However, those options bring a certain level of added expense rebinds. You want extra ribbons, no problem. You want a certain design, tell me what you want. The possibilities are vast, and you simply can’t find that in a factory Bible.
Another aspect not previously mention, but can’t be overstated, is the experience of the craftsman and what that brings to the Bible you’ll carry for years to come. Bible rebinding incudes many skills not used in most other trades. It takes time to master these skills. Part of what you’re paying for are these skills. The increasing cost you find among rebinders is built upon how much experience and skill that rebinder brings to the table. You’re going to pay more for an experienced and skilled rebinder than for a new rebinder.
While I’ve gotten faster at rebinding over the years, it’s really not about how much faster I can do a rebind. My largest concern is improving my rebinds. I’ll change small aspects of a rebind from time to time, attempting to perfect some aspects of my rebinding. A big change occurred about 1.5 years ago when I found the trick to doing lay flat rebinds. If I was interested in quantity over quality, I probably wouldn’t have experimented and figured that out. I want to provide the best rebind I can, and that means not rushing. Yes, rebinds are expensive, but I want your rebind to last a lifetime. That’s why I’ve spent so much time accumulating better tools, premium materials, and improving my skills. While all of it adds to the expense of rebinds, it ultimately benefits you.
Is a rebind appropriate for everyone? Of course not, and I’m not here trying to twist anyone’s arm. However if you’re interested is a specific design, leather, color, etc., rebinds have their place. They also have their place when it’s a well-loved Bible that that is falling apart. Their are many reasons to to rebind a Bible. The question is does the expense, which is costly, make sense to you or your family. A well made Bible will last a lifetime, and can actually turn a Bible into a family heirloom. Yes, rebinds are expensive, but do you really think that $1,100 iPhone will outlast a rebind and become a treasured heirloom?
